Basement Underpinning South Kingsway
It was a pleasure to work for you
Basement Lowering in West Toronto
Great job with underpinning our Victorian house
It was a real pleasure to work with Matt home owner thank you
It was a real pleasure working with you thanks
Thank you so much it was a pleasure to work with you.
Thank you so much it was a pleasure to work with you.
Underpinning and New Sewer Drain Installation
Hi Stephen
It was a real pleasure working and meeting you please let us know if you need anything in the future thanks so much
Hi Elaine
It was a pleasure to work with you and your family thanks
Demolish and Foundations with Blocks
Hi Christian thanks for the great review reading it makes us proud to do what we do and also for choosing us once again to do your project it's always a pleasure working for you we appreciate it very much.
Very reliable, systematic, and responsive
Thanks james
It was great working with you thanks for the review
More about Maximum General Contracting:
Basement Lowering
Lowering your basement will be done in the A,B,C method what this means is first we dig out all the A's maximum 4 feet wide, we then form and pour concrete 25 mpa. After that stage we will install 2” inches of dry pack grout. We then go on to do B and C in the same procedure. All stages are inspected by city Inspectors. This is for the underpinning method.
Waterproofing
External Method
Waterproofing can be done either internally, or applied to the exterior of the structure. The exterior waterproofing method is the preferred and better method of handling waterproofing because it does not allow water to seep through the foundation wall once completed. The external method is done by digging down to the foundation. The wall is then wire-brushed and cleaned. The foundation wall is then parged and a rubber coating is applied to the entire exterior "below ground" surface. Finally, it is completed with a waterproof membrane applied over the rubber coating. Once this is completed, 4" diameter weeping tiles are then installed in a trench surrounding the entire building. The weeping tiles are set level with the bottom of the footings, covered with 10" to 12" of 3/4" gravel to assist with drainage. The trench is then back-filled.
Internal Method
If the internal method is used, we cut and remove the floor slabs approximately 12" away from the wall. Earth is then removed right down to the bottom of the footings. We supply and install the waterproof membrane on the foundation wall. Weeping tile is then installed, level with the footing and terminated to a sump-pump pit. The weeping tiles are covered with gravel before concrete is poured over top to create a new basement floor.
Underpinning
Underpinning is the process of strengthening and stabilizing the foundation of an existing building or other structure. Underpinning is accomplished by extending the foundation in depth or in breadth so it either rests on a stronger soil stratum or distributes its load across a greater area. Use of micro piles [1] and jet grouting are common methods in underpinning. An alternative to underpinning is the strengthening of the soil by the introduction of a grout. All of these processes are generally elaborate.
Concrete
Concrete, structural masonry material made by mixing broken stone or gravel with sand, cement, and water and allowing the mixture to harden into a solid mass. The cement is the chemically active element, or matrix; the sand and stone are the inert elements, or aggregate. Concrete is adaptable to widely varied structural needs, is available practically anywhere, is fire resistant, and can be used by semiskilled workers.
Brick and Block Work
A wet brick and block build is constructed with a block built internal skin and cavity followed by a brick external facing, remain the preferred building method of self-builders. Brickwork masonry is produced when a bricklayer uses bricks and mortar to build up structures such as walls, bridges and chimneys. (Brickwork is also used to finish openings such as doors or windows in buildings made of other materials.) Where the bricks are to remain fully visible, as opposed to being covered up by plaster or stucco, this is known as face-work.
Additions and Extensions
In order to do an addition you must first dig and remove the earth down to the level of the new footings which will be formed and poured with concrete, then the cement blocks can be install for the new addition ( you can also pour the foundation wall with concrete)
Bench Footing
Bench footing is done in the 1 to 1 ratio for every 1 foot down you must go out 1 foot. We then go on to install 3” inches of 3/4 inch gravel with weeping tile around perimeter of basement which is terminated to sum pump pit. The pit has a pump which pumps out natural earth water out to side or back of home. The next step is to pour 4” inches of concrete for the slab.
Main Drains / Sump Pumps
The Main Drains / Sump pump are used to remove water that has accumulated in the sump pump pit. A sump pump pit, commonly found in the home basement, is simply a hole to collect water. The water may enter via the perimeter drains of a basement waterproofing system, funneling into the pit, or may arrive because of rain or because of natural ground water, if the basement is below the water table level.
Plans & Permits
Maximum General Contracting will arrange for all required permits to do the work. Should you also require plans to be drawn up, we have an engineer capable of handling all your planning needs.
Radiant Floor Heating
Many of our clients ask about Radiant Floor Heating and we agree that this is an excellent idea because it also helps to keep the basement dry and provides a warm, comfortable floor on which to walk.
